I have to admit that I am close to giving up now. I have made a lot of muslins, read several books, spend a lot of time googling, watching youtube instructions on pants fitting and discussing these issues with nice people. But no progress at all. At all!!!!!! I suspect that my pants issue (fabric pooling on the back thigh, making cris-crossing lines) is a result of the very big difference in my hip circumference (41″) and my upper thigh circumference (22.5″). I can see that this corresponds to around 4-5 patternsizes, with my hips falling into XL and my thighs in to XS. Maybe this big difference makes it difficult for the fabric to fall nicely? As someone in one of my sewing group said “it would be much like fitting pants to Kermit” hahaa!
I must say I see the resemblance; thin thighs and wide backside 🙂
I have 1 pair of jeans where I only have very little of this; the denim is very heavy and stiff, so I thought it could very well just be due to this. However, to test it, I took the jeans apart, traced the pattern pieces and sewed it in my cotton. Like magic, the lines appeared again. Then I looked very closely at the RTWs again – and hmmm, the lines are actually there too, disguised in the denim colors and effects of the wearing of the jeans!
Now I think that my only option is to make stretchy pants in very soft and stretchy material, where the lines don’t show. I really don’t want to buy pants; for one, I am on a RTW fast for 2018, and also I can make them better myself! AND now I see that even RTWs do this on me as well!
My very last resort is to try to drape fit (I got this very good tip from Kennis from Itch to Stitch ). I fantasize about getting a fit like this.