Pants & jeans Sewing

Cling film pant sloper v2 – sewing the tester pants

OK, so I tried to sew pants from the sloper I made of cling film. And while it is not a quick fix, it has clearly opened my eyes for some considerations I hadn’t thought about before I made the wrap sloper! I now understand why I have so much trouble fitting pants – my backside is very bumpy 🙂 And the bumps are in all 3 dimensions, making it almost impossible to find a way to construct pants that will sit well when I move around.

It was a bit difficult to get the 3D shape of my backside to convert to the flat paper – just below my butt something is going on that tilts the legs very much to the side. It sort of works against each other, so some wanted the leg to tilt invart, other out ward. I tried to take the middleground, which still led the legs to have a very different angle from the crotch than in most patterns. So this is my first try:

Not too bad really, definitely better than any pattern I have ever tried. But not good enough, I really want a smooth line on the back thigh. Right now the fabric tries to hug every bump on my backside, so I am trying to figure out how to get it to fall from the hip line in stead. I have tried a LOT of different things, but nothing really helped.

Here I tried to raise the leg (and added more room in the legs too) to achieve the look I want; it helped some, but not quite enough.

Also, I tried to cut up the leg to see what would happen, and obviously I stand at an angle, putting the weight of the pants on my back side. Possibly adding to the wrinkles going on?

 

For now this is the best fit I achieved; and this is definitely better than anything I have achieved before, so yay for wrap slopers! I made this version of the sloper by merging the wrap sloper with my traditional sloper made my from measurements. After I made this, I had my husband pin the fold on the back. It looks better, but I still have “bubles” of fabric here. It does not fall in a straight line from hip to back knee.

 

SO now:

  • I will have my husband help with making another cling wrap form, this time taping a lot more to make it sturdy. Then I will use this as a dress form for my pant alterations, making it easier than trying to see what is going on in my own crotch while wearing the pants.
  • I will try to sew a much more “daring” version of my sloper – it looks insane on paper, but maybe it will work better for me?
  • (Maybe, at some point in the distant future I will give up and accept that my shape is not for non-stretch pants. But I am not there yet 🙂
  • This weekend: Sew a dress or something similar to restore my sewing joy!

 

GemGem

2 thoughts on “Cling film pant sloper v2 – sewing the tester pants”

  1. what did you do with the grain line? IIRC from my pattern drafting classes a bazillion years ago – the leg should be on the straight and the bum should be off grain, putting your cb seam on a bias

    1. That is what I did, as I read this too 🙂 To avoid the legs from twitching they should be on grain – I hadn’t thought about the CB being on bias, but that makes sense!.

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